Epson PictureMate Deluxe Viewer Edition

Picture this. You brought your Nikon D90 to a family event. Naturally, you became the default photographer that night. All those with their small compacts just suddenly went quiet. OK. You took your shot, it turned out perfect. What's next?

Obviously, to print! Of all the reviews and homework I have done, it seems Epson got the hang and leadership in making them a skip better while maintaining one of the lowest print per photo cost.

The good: Six-color ink cartridge produces top-quality prints
The bad: Printer is bigger and bulkier than most
The bottom line: The device is on the expensive side, but per-print costs are cheap

Epson popularized compact photo printers last year with its original PictureMate. This upgrade adds a color LCD for previewing your snapshots before you print them. Print packs with an inkjet cartridge and 100 sheets of glossy paper are guaranteed to yield at least 100 prints, but most shutterbugs get many more (we printed 176 snapshots from one cartridge earlier this year, giving us a price of about 18 cents a print.) The printer has built-in editing functions, such as cropping, but viewing and editing can be slow with higher resolution photos.

Or better - Epson Picturemate Zoom that incorporates CD burning capability!

Preparation for Trip Shoot

Yes, I am quite tied up with my consulting job at the moment as the doom and gloom economy demands my service to help companies achieve brutal cost reduction across the board. Meanwhile, I am making the necessary preparation for short overseas trips for my shoot.

Being surrounded by budget carriers, moving from one place to another in Asia Pacific is a breeze and I will be sharing more tips and techniques to pack as to keep it handy. My first trip of the year has yet to be confirmed but my second one has been confirmed to be in Hong Kong since last year - to be in March 2009.

Have fun and stay tune.

Sheer Lunacy in Pursuit of Macro Feature in Non-macro Lens

Maybe, its late into the night and my eyes are getting droopy but I believe I found the first piece of information in photography that veers towards madness and unhealthy obsession in photo-taking - lens reversal.

Apart from the usual use of auto extension rings (e.g. PK-12/13) to further help lens like the Nikkor 50mm F/1.8D work more like a macro lens, I came across a lens reverse-mount kit from the old library of Nikon! People actually do that in hope that the non-centralized focal length be reversed closer to the subject. Most importantly, it works! Madness I would say, but genius to some others.

DIY Lens Hood for Nikkor 50mm F/1.8D

To reduce sun flare and refractions, the optional, very-hard-to-get lens rubber hood HR-2 will be the solution. Alternatively, if time is on your side, why not do one yourself?

In two flavors, you can now easily create a petal hood or rounded hood from [here].

Enjoy and save!

Depth of Field (DOF) and Hyperfocal Distance of Nikon D90

You may have wondered "How do pros make those wonderful landscapes where everything seems to be in focus?" Well, it is not merely by closing down the aperture of superb wide angle lenses. In fact, shooting at smallest aperture only introduce defraction - sharpness killer.

Instead, they maximize DOF (depth of field), the region of acceptable sharpness, by focusing at the hyperfocal distance. The next time you shoot, pay attention to the following table above to improve your landscape shoot.

So what is hyperfocal distance? Whenever you focus your lens there will be an area that is in focus and areas that are out of focus. The area that is in focus is referred to as the "focal plane". Focus there.

Example of use (see diagram above):
If you were using a 24mm lens and select f/11 as your aperture, the Hyperfocal Distance would be 2.5 meters or 8.4 feet. If you focus at that hyperfocal distance, the depth of field in your image would be from half of that distance (1.25 meters or 4.2 feet) to infinity. Since modern lenses don't have DOF engraved marks in their barrels anymore, you need to estimate where in your scene is that hyperfocal distance read from the table to focus on. As long as it is approximate you'll be fine.

Is Nikon Photographer Missing Something Here?

I had the pleasure today to visit the Canon showroom, again, in satisfying my insatiable appetite for photography insights from the "other camp". But this time round, there is the usual camera parade where one can test run any known model from the maker. Surprised to see though, the Canon 5D Mark II which came out recently was no longer on display. I was told it has malfunctioned during the first week of display. Hmm...not a very positive note on its reliability!

Thankfully, there was still the Canon 50D to familiarize myself with. According to Canon, the Canon 50D is for amateur and I am beginning to see why. Despite the heavy weight and magnesium alloy body, there's no weather sealing. As usual, the appalling placement of the dials and buttons on the body really makes me totally confused. The multi-direction "joystick" has to be used in conjunction with the huge circular dial to activate the various menu item. The on/off of the Canon 50D, 5D, 1D is an obscure small selector switch at the base of the back panel, making me wonder why is it designed this way.

The kit lens that comes with the Canon 50D is the 18-200mm USM IS lens and a few shots were taken out of curiosity. Maybe, its the lens, or maybe its the defective body, but I was shocked to find that shots taken in the showroom were all so washed-out! It became worst when extended to the full 200mm! Is my eyes playing tricks or is it the VGA 3" screen of the Canon 50D? The WB was set at Neutral for both shots with the rest at factory default. The images captured was surprisingly blurry as well, unlike what I always get on the Nikon D90.

Being one who has spent countless hours studying every available brochures from Nikon, I can only say that the quality of pictures on every Canon brochures were so soft and patchy in comparison that I was speechless. Finally, I came to realize that Canon lost over 8% market share in 2007 to Nikon via Google. It seems to all tie in together now...

Updated in April 2008, Canon sold 3.18 million single-lens reflex cameras in 2007 compared with Nikon's 2.98 million, according to a study released by market researcher IDC. That represents a 42.7 percent and 40 percent share, respectively, of the 2007 SLR market. It's a much wider margin for Canon than in 2006, when it had 46.7 percent of the market, compared with Nikon's 33 percent.

Aperture 2 Introduction

As shared, we will go through Aperture 2 in what many call post processing work on their images. For this exercise, please shoot in NEF RAW format that we can be on the same page when end results is concerned. JPEG has already been compressed 75% so don't expect post processing to be meaningful for such image format.

Let's begin. Step 1 - update your Aperture to the latest iteration - 2.1.2 if you have not done so. Step 2 - Grant permission to Aperture to import your shots into Aperture the moment you connect your Nikon D90. Note that its a two-step process. Aperture will attempt to grant you an overview of what's in your Nikon D90 but you will need to manually need to hit the import button to really get it in. The tab you will be working with is shown on the right here - Projects, Metadata and Adjustments.

Step 3 - To enhance your image, the most direct way is to simply navigate to the Adjustment tab and start playing with the sliders found on each of the seven key areas

• Raw fine tuning
• White balance
• Exposure
• Enhance
• Levels
• Highlights and shadows
• Color

This should get you started with some room to experiment and play. Obviously, as your library grows in Aperture, you will begin to manually classify all your images into projects and smart albums. What I really like is how flexible the sorting can be achieved in Aperture but ideally still lacks the auto face-recognition sort introduced in iPhoto '09 (Keynote Macworld 2009) yesterday.

In my future article about Aperture, I would run through what I have learnt about the detailed adjustments you can introduce to your image besides playing with the sliders found in the Adjustment tab. That's where it then gets more interesting.

Killer Combo to Shoot Without Tripod on Nikon D90

Apply steps in unison:

• Switch to a big aperture lens (e.g. Nikkor 50mm F/1.8D which is sharp and cheap!)
• Set the minimal shutter speed to match the inverse of the focal length on Nikon D90 (e.g. 50mm equates to shoot at a minimal speed of 1/50 second)
• Activate delay exposure mode on custom menu to stabilize the mirror movement before shutter release
  
• Apply all posture, breathing techniques in my last year's blog article
• Activate the 2-second delay timer for your shoot so as not to introduce shakes due to pressing the shutter release
• Use a flat railing, building edge for camera placement if applicable
• Activate NR for high ISO on the Nikon D90
• Shoot in NEF RAW that mistakes can be reversed in Aperture 2 in post processing

The above methods is not applicable for night landscape shoots where special effect is coveted (e.g. Firework trails)

The Rule of Sharpness in Nikkor 50mm F/1.8D

In all my hastiness to shoot with my new 50mm lens, I totally did not remind myself one very important rule - the inverse focal length rule. I did shared earlier on the various settings you need to configure on the Nikon D90 (which still stands) but I believe I left out two critical ones

• Ensure shutter speed is operating at 1/50 second or faster at all time (Menu ISO Sensitivity Settings)
  
• Bring the Center-weighted area diameter to 6mm instead of the default 8mm (Menu B3)
  

All my shots are just turning out much sharper now even at F/1.8 which, rightfully is the primary reason why I purchased this lens all along. I have read somewhere that the lens performs optimally only at F/4 or smaller which I believe is not true. Now, as for DOF (Depth of Field), the exclusive use of Aperture Priority Mode may be suitable for those who are extremely concerned at how shallow or deep the DOF he wants for that shot with this particular lens.

In the department of weight and bulk balance when the Nikkor 50mm F/1.8D is on the Nikon D90 (together with the MB-D80 battery grip), I am pleasantly surprised to find it so comfortably carried over my neck, making it such a pleasant day of day shoot. I used to only be able to sling it over my right shoulder when the Nikkor 18-105mm kit lens is in place.

Another new day, another new discovery!

Filters and Lens

Its a whole systematic school of technicalities and details when lens filter is concerned and I just realized that my lens came with one that is of UV type, and not simply a protector filter. Well, this could well be the notable difference my shots turn out against a colleague of mine who also owns a Nikon D90 without a proper UV filter on its kit lens.

Then, there is the polarizing type filters, that cuts glare and reflective lights from non-metallic surfaces when shots are made. It even comes available in types that soften, enhance contrast etc. your subjects! As far as brand is concerned, I came to know two prominent make - Hoya and Stein Zeiser and decided to get another Stein Zeiser UV filter for my Nikkor 50mm F/1.8D today.

The effects further enhances the shots I took today. Its a must for one who would want their lens to stay effective longer.

Shooting Kids with Nikon D90

I guess one of the key reason why some of us invested in the Nikon D90 is to capture those priceless moments with our kids. I am no exception. The Nikkor 50mm F/1.8D is beginning to shine as brightly as the star as shots are released on my Nikon D90 before my kids. And with my earlier tips, I found the further tweaking of Metering mode to Spot Metering to be a welcome surprise for my eyes! To be on the safe side, also turn on your High Speed release mode to clock that 4.5 FPS moments.

I know...I know...you can do likewise on WB and EV compensation to sweeten the deal but well...you get the picture. I am just wondering why I did not get the Nikkor 50mm earlier. Perhaps the cheap price tag?

One thing to note in photographing kids and family - it does not mean that a good picture has to be a sharp picture. Its the expression you manage to capture from your kids that adds a substantial value to that shot. Sharpness in intended areas is a bonus and will come only as you hone in your shoot skills.

Lastly, also bear in mind that photography is an artistic expression of yourself. It does involves some in-born artistic gene to excel in it. Hence, don't be too hard on ones who just can't get it right no matter how hard that person tries. Its OK. Try roller-blading...

Identifying Locations for Practice

As the good old Kungfu master says, practice makes perfect. The ratio of good shots from among the average ones are usually at 10-20% of total shots taken for an advanced amateur and can dip below 2% for beginner. The Pros may hit above 30%. As shared, I was into photography for a while now, having began with Contax camera back in 2002, working my way to Canon G Series and then to the Panasonic DMC-FZ series. I still shoot with my Contax T3 and its kept in my dry cabinet for that occassional rare shoot with film strips. But the good old myth can be a hindrance to improve our shoot - you must travel to exotic places to practice. Not true. Here's a recommended list of places/objects to quickly allow you to clock those hours with your camera

• Your home (and backyard)
• Your office
  
• In Macro mode
• Zoo or botanical garden
• Pets or other animals
• While in a moving car
• In the city where you live
• Repeat with more shots with a different lens
  

As the Nikon D90 claims, its strong shutter life of 100,000 cycles would work out to a shoot rate of approximately 100 shots daily if it lasts 3 years. I personally don't expect it to last any longer than that. So go ahead and press that shutter!

Who knows, I may move to the Nikon D700 when movies shoot is no longer a key priority!

Nikkor 50mm F/1.8D Revisited

Just got mine today.

With a very shallow depth of field of this lens, it certainly takes a little getting used to, initially. The first set of test shots went all over the shop and its definitely not about the lens or the Nikon D90, I realized. But rather, its about the need to switch to a more concerted focus mode - Single Point (Menu item A1). That's when everything begin to fall in place. Picture softness will occurs if you expect sharp images off-the-shelf. Doesn't happen. Note to also switch to AF-C AF mode to attain focus lock on moving subjects. Yes, it does not come equipped with Silent Wave Motor like our kit lens - Nikkor 18-105mm VR, but its nimbleness in obtaining focus on the subject is commendable.

The 2002-Introduced Nikkor 50mm F/1.8D is one of the top-notch (yet so affordable) range of portrait lens made by Nikon. Its also quite fine if the "MADE IN CHINA" is a major concern as all Nikon 50mm lens have all along been manufactured there. With the $100 price tag, image quality is still stunning. Historically, The optical designs used in 50mm lenses were perfected about a bazillion years ago so you know they‘re sharp.

In P mode of the Nikon D90 Creative Dial, you need to ensure the Aperture lock is set at F/22. Some people are quite disturbed about the slight diaphragm movement when you shake the lens but its pretty alright with me in that department.

Enough said, lets start learning to shoot like Cartier Bresson!

About Aperture 2 or Nikon Capture NX

As previously mentioned, you can use any platform you are familiar with, and I am sticking to Apple's Aperture 2. Its in my opinion stronger (more capable) than even Nikon's own in-house make - Capture NX. Adobe Photoshop Lightroom would be a strong alternative in the Windows platform. At one point of time, editing my photos from my work after my shoot is considered cheating and I strive to keep that balance in mind.

In fact, its solely to the objective of "rescuing" those minority valuable work I hope to keep and not simply put them in my trash bin. Many pros consider Aperture their left hand while they shoot with their right. I would simply like to attest to this fact and how, with such a tool, can I hone in my work as an amateur photographer.

I have seen the opposite true where these bunch of "photographers" spend hours after hours tweaking each shot they took religiously. I call them "publishers". Well, this is a conscious choice. So far, none of the image on my Nikon D90 gallery has been "touched" by Apple's Aperture or Nikon's Capture NX. But when I begin work, a new gallery will be opened to share with all the "results" of such editing work.

RAW Deal on Nikon D90

Overall Quality - In a well-exposed image with a full range of tones that do not require processing, the differences between, say, a TIFF file produced from your camera and one produced using Aperture’s Raw converter would probably be marginal. This is probably the
only situation in which there is little advantage to be gained from shooting Raw, but probably not one that occurs all that regularly for most photographers.

Bit Depth - Camera Raw files use the full number of bits (usually 12) available in the image data. If you shoot JPEGs, this is downsampled to 8 and the camera, not you, makes the decision about how effectively it uses those bits to represent the tonal levels in the image. For some images this can result in the irretrievable loss of highlight and/or shadow detail.

No Compression - Camera Raw files are not usually compressed, if they are, a lossless algorithm is employed. JPEG compression, even at the highest quality settings, removes a lot of data from your images which can severely limit what your are able to achieve in post-processing.

Increased Latitude - Latitude describes the exposure characteristics of film emulsions or digital sensors in terms of their ability to cope with a range of light levels. When the range of light levels (called the dynamic range) in a subject is within that capable of being recorded by the film or sensor, latitude provides an indication of the degree to which the image can be over- or underexposed while still producing acceptable results (i.e. image detail in the highlights and shadows).

Nikon D90 GPS Module

The business of geotagging images is not exactly in my radar and after all, what advantages does buying that additional GPS module do to our overall photographing experience?

Imagine the following...

Have you ever wanted to quickly find all the photos taken at say, your favorite beach?

Chances are that unless you've been meticulous in filing your photos or tagging them with keywords, this could take quite a bit of time.

Wouldn't it be easier if you could click on your beach on a map, and bring up all of your photos within 1km, or display all of your holiday photos on a map?

This is the promise of geotagging.

Simply put, geotagging records the latitude and longitude of the camera at the time the photo was taken and stores it in the image file.

The Nikon D90 GPS module GP-1 cost approximately $250 at time of writing.

Strength of RAW Image Format

Some of the real power in RAW files stems from a greater ability to hold color information (detail) than JPEG. A digital SLR records an image in three color channels: red, green and blue (RGB). The Nikon D90 records RAW in 12-bit color (4096 colors per color channel) while JPEG records in 8-bit color (256 colors per color channel).

This additional color information is especially important when an image needs altering or correction. During something as simple as resizing (making a file smaller or larger) computer software must make decisions about adding pixels or discarding pixels from an image. The more information held in the file (RAW wins this battle), the more accurate the decisions made by the software will be, preserving more detail.

In our huge library of photos, I am pretty confident to say that there will be well-composed images (not necessary well colored, focused or exposed) which we dearly want to save and improve on, as opposed to discarding them entirely. Well, this is the time when those RAW image format saves the day. In my new year's quest, I endeavor to spend and share with my readers a few tricks of correcting those problems with Aperture 2. If you are non-mac user, perhaps Photoshop is the platform to go. The concept is cross platform.

I know I praised the extensive use of JPEG in my previous article due to automatic Chromatic Abbrevation, but it would not do the Nikon D90 justice if we delve only in the realm of JPEG always, will we?

Semi Professional Tips for Shoots

You know, as my small collection of photographs grows in Picasa, its an encouraging sign that I get an audience with steady growing pool of readers like you. And it kinda make me seek a better way to improve my skills with the Nikon D90 without going through sleeves of courses and certifications. So, here it is from what I have been reading, surfing and practicing, in bite size format. Enjoy and may your photography skills improve as you read them.

"Salable" is an industry term every photographer quickly becomes familiar with to distinguish between the everyday reality of making money versus creating those artistic competition or award winning prints which don't earn the money. Tip 1027 - Happy people whose faces you can readily see are the most salable prints. The quality of light people prefer for portraits is soft light. Tip 1028 - You should rarely photograph anyone straight on. Introduce some angle while minimizing cross-sections. Head tilts also makes normal portraits stand out.

Tip 1029 - Keep everybody's head at a different level while shooting people. Not everybody wants a masterpiece. Most people just want to remember their loved ones as happy. It's not hard to capture that with your camera, just don't stand them in hard sunlight, standing in a straight line facing straight toward the camera.

Nikon unveils My Picturetown for iPhone, free app

Nikon has released its first “iApp” for the use of iPhone and Nikon’s photo storage and sharing site, My Picturetown online, most importantly, it’s free!

The “My Picturetown for iPhone” enables users of Nikon’s My Picturetown get access to online images stored in their Picturetown account via their iPhone. Additionally, they can also view, create and upload photos as well as tagging and accessing EXIF data directly from their iPhone.

Nikon’s My Picturetown is giving up 2GB of free photo storage online with the option to purchase up to 200GB through the Gold Account. The app is already up for downloading from Apple’s App Store.

Nikon AF-S 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 VR II

In my travel trips, I am occasionally bound by the limitation of my 18-105mm kit lens and I am currently doing my homework for an affordable tele-zoom lens that is cost-effective. Of the 60 lenses offered by Nikon, my evaluation has led me to zoom in to the Nikkor 70-300mm lens.

Reviews on the Internet all over so far has proved positive on this lens where the price to performance ratio is almost ideal. The hands-on session today with the lens has been good, save the slower-than-normal focusing speed. Its a tad over $550 but its what I would go to get the wildlife (and even perhaps sports) into my iPhoto library bank. The rest are just too expensive or low in performance.

Lastly, with VR II built-in, attempts to shoot at slower speed without a tripod may still be very possible with the ideal steady hands.